Taiwan Today

In the early years of the reign of Emperor Yung Cheng of the Ching Dynasty (1723-1736), pioneers from places such as Changchow in the coastal province of Fukien crossed the often stormy Taiwan Strait to land at Keelung. The name "Keelung" meant "chicken basket," perhaps reflecting the area's wild fowl.

One group of pioneers began farming what is now the port city's Chung Shan Road area, planting orchards and truck gardens which were still in place at the end of World War II - though, now, multi-story buildings have taken their place. The exertions of the pioneers gradually produced canals and roads; a fishing industry and established markets took form, and the city prospered.

A wharf was built for local rafts and fishing boats, but also to receive the families of the pioneers, following in later boats. Such were the beginnings of the city as an important port, the gateway to Taiwan.

The population of Keelung now ex­ceeds 300,000, a huge increase from the 76,000 registered at the end of World War II, the majority of whom are now en­gaged in commerce, fishing and light industry.

The city covers an area of 132.3 square kilometers, 30 kilometers north of Taipei, and is adjoined by the Taipei county townships of Juifang, Wanli and Hsichih. Surrounded by mountains on the east, west and south and facing the Pacific Ocean to the north, Keelung, not surprisingly, became an early distribution center for northern Taiwan traders.

Keelung's weather is mild. The sum­mers are long but not excessively hot, with maximum temperatures of about 34°C. The short winters rarely see tem­peratures below 7°C. However, because of the northeastern monsoon, the rainy season runs from October to March. A period of two months unabated rain was once recorded. Thunder storms in the summer come suddenly, and sometimes it can be raining on one street and sunny over the next. On an average, it rains for 122 days annually, making it the rainiest port in Asia and the third rainiest port in the world.

During the Japanese occupation, only a few wharfs and warehouses were built in Keelung. Since they were only used for military purposes, little trade ensued. The Allies bombed and severely damaged these primitive facilities during the Second World War. At the end of the war, the harbor was partially blocked by sunken ships, making navigation difficult and dangerous. This greatly reduced shipping activity and, for awhile, Keelung was a dead port.

But today, after thirty years of energetic construction by the govern­ment, Keelung is an important interna­tional port city. It is both a passenger terminal and a thriving center of com­mercial trade activity.

Surrounded on three sides by moun­tains, the harbor is well protected from winds and rough seas, and is of strategic importance. In the past, U.S. destroyers and submarines often visited Keelung, and U.S. Navy specialists often praised the harbor.

There are actually three harbors at Keelung, the inner and outer harbors and the fishing harbor, with a combined area of 3,700,000 square meters. Harbor waters deeper than nine meters cover 2,500,000 square meters.

Over the past decade, the incredibly rapid growth of Taiwan's export-oriented industries has strained maritime facilities at both the southern port city of Kaohsiung and at Keelung. The government's annual expenditures on harbor construction work, aimed at accommodating the burgeoning trade, have been enormous.

In order to cope with the overflow of shipping at Keelung, that city's Harbor Bureau decided to construct a supplementary harbor at Suao, But the new harbor was not suitable for ships over 3,000 tons and did not function to divert the amount of shipping intended.

The Bureau had planned to expand Shen Ao Harbor to enable that port to handle logs and other materials. However, that plan was dropped and the Bureau finally decided upon expanding the harbor at Pachihmen. The world energy crisis and an ensuing decline in trade delayed this project. When the world economy picked up and Taiwan's export industries regained activity in 1975, the project was resumed.

Pachihmen is to the north of Keelung and was originally an iron ore harbor for the Taiwan Ferrous Metals Company. Up until 1957 here was even a small railroad running between Pachihmen port and Patoutzu.

The plan made necessary the removal of the bridge to Hoping Island, and the authorities decided to construct a tunnel in its place rather than forcing the islanders depend upon ferries.

Expansion of Keelung harbor also made it necessary provide a new location for fishing boats, which were moored along the eastern bank. The Fishing Bureau of the Taiwan Provincial Government, in plans presented to central authorities in 1968, designated Patoutzu - two miles to the east of Keelung - for a new fishing harbor, Surrounded by mountains on the north, south and east, Patoutzu had been brought to prosperity upon completion of the coastal highway. Its old road, widened to four lanes, brought an end to its isolation.

Foreign marine experts were consulted on the planning and design work for the fishing harbor, and in 1975 final details were completed by the Taiwan Fishing Industry Technical Consultancy. The Retired Serviceman's Engineering Agency (RSEA) took on the task of construction.

The harbor project was by no means an easy matter - there is a severe silting problem and the area is pounded by heavy seas during the northeastern monsoon. But the RSEA completed the work on target, July 1, 1980.

Keelung's second major feature, after the harbor, is a magnificent park.

Chung Cheng Park in Keelung occupies over 22 acres and has been developed into an ideal recreational center for the city's citizens. The entrance to the park is an imperial-style archway; along both sides of the main path into the park are innumerable trees and flowers.

Numerous paths and roads give access to park facilities which attract tourists from all over the island. On Sundays and holidays many small groups of people can be seen wandering through its peaceful and quiet environment.

At the first level of the park there was at one time a World War II vintage fortification built by the Japanese. It was intended to defend against allied planes, but was in fact boomed by them. Although it was once a tourist attraction, the city government's beautification pro gram called for demolition of the dilapidated structure. In its place was constructed a crescent-shaped pavilion with concrete benches where people might rest in the shade of luxuriant trees. In 1976, lhe Keelung International Young Businessman’s Association, with other groups, erected a bronze statue in memory of the ROC's late President, Chiang Kai·shek.

A playground-sponsored by Lions' Clubs in Korea, Hongkong and Keelung - features concrete tigers and elephants, slides, a two story pavilion, a roller skating ring and other facilities much appreciated by children.

Next to the playground are steps leading to a second level of the park, where a temple-like structure is sited. Originally, this was the location of a Japa­nese Shinto Shrine, which (after the retrocession of Taiwan) was rebuilt into a Chinese memorial. Two Japanese wooden structures in the complex were once surrounded by Japanese-style stone lanterns and steles. One of the structures was later used as a temporary city library, but in July 1970 both were demolished make way for Keelung's Martyrs' Memorial, and the library was moved to the old city council chambers.

A small concrete path leading on from the Martyrs' Memorial brings visitors to small pavilions embellished with finely patterned tiles. From the pavilions there is a magnificent panoramic view of Keelung.

Paths from the pavilions lead to the cultural center-one past the city's tennis courts and one to the rear exit, by the city council chambers. Both offer a five minute walk to the cultural center.

In Keelung, the various clans used to take turns officiating at the Ghost Festival, which formerly took place near the old park. However, with the completion of the Taipei-to-Keelung Freeway, the site was no longer appropriate for reli­gious activities. Acting on citizens' sug­gestions, the city government, in 1971, built a cultural center in Chung Cheng Park. The four-story building, shaped like a pagoda, is one of Keelung's land­ marks. An open area in front of the center is made available for Ghost Festi­val activities; this new site is much superior to the original one.

Near the cultural center are two umbrella-shaped pavilions which can shelter some several hundred people from rain as they enjoy the view of the harbor.

From one of these pavilions a path leads to the highest point in the park, where the giant Buddha is located. A panoramic view of the city and the harbor from this point is breathtaking.

The 22.5 meter reinforced concrete Buddha at this prominent spot faces the harbor. This glistening white monument was erected in and is the tallest of its kind in the Far East. Though quite different in appearance from the seated Buddha at Changhua, Keelung's standing Buddha is equally spectacular.

Five floors within the Buddha are accessible to visitors. Near the Buddha are two rectangular gardens planted with rare flora. The open area in front of the Buddha is paved with marble so highly polished that visitors can see their own reflections. Behind the Buddha is a three-story Buddhist temple architected in the Tang Dynasty style. In the temple's central hall is a statue of the Kuanyin deity, before which the faithful offer incense. To the right of the temple is a souvenir and refreshment shop and a vegetarian restaurant. On the other side are meditation rooms. The second floor provides rooms reserved for reciting scriptures as well as rooms for the abbot's residence.

The meeting place of Ihe Keelung Early Risers' Club is nearby. The club was founded by a well-known Keelung businessman, Chiang P'i-uei. Originally from Fukien, Chiang arrived in Keelung in his twenties and achieved so great a financial success that - in addition to becoming a regular contributor to charitable works - he alone sponsored the construction of the club's facilities, including some twenty pavilions complete with exercise grounds.

Club members of all age groups assemble at the club at 4 a.m. every morning, regardless of weather, for exercise. By the time the sun rises, members have finished their exercises and are off to begin a new day's work. - by Martin Merz/Photos by Meng Ching-chang