Stationed in what used to be the least popular section of the night market, that corner is now bustling because of this pastry cart. Most of the time, four kinds of pastries are offered, each costing about US$0.30: sweet crisp bun (oval-shaped with a sweet filling), salty crisp bun (round with peppered pork filling), red-bean bun (also round), and sesame bun (rectangular-shaped with a green onion filling). Occasionally, there are also green-onion pretzels and pan-fried leek buns.
The wife is in charge of adding the filling, sprinkling sesame on top of each pastry and baking them on the stovetop until they turn a light yellow. Then, the husband takes over by putting the pastries into the oven. He shovels the pastries in and out, rotating them inside the oven so that they bake evenly. He then scoops them out and throws them into a carton padded with thick brown paper.
Customers who come regularly know the routine: They pick what they want and bag it themselves. Once I saw a customer first bag two salty pastries, then wait patiently for another sweet bun and rectangular pastry. The customers never seem confused about who gets what first.
The salty peppered pork bun is rather unique. It is a miniature version of baked peppered pork pie, only smaller and flatter. It falls under the category of spiced meat pie but the filling is a thin layer, letting off the same zesty meat smell, only without all the meat. What makes this bun special is that it tastes just as good when cold, making it ideal for bringing on a long train ride. This is quite different from what happens when you try to eat a regular meat pie cold.
What is most suitable for take-outs, however, is the stall's rectangular sesame bun. I have seen people buy 20 at a time because it tastes just as good when you re-heat it. It can be eaten like a bagel, sliced in half and stuffed with ham, onion, tomato, cream cheese, scrambled egg or even fermented tofu. Or, just eat it plain with a bowl of radish soup with pork ribs.
he charm of this pastry cart is in its simplicity. There are no tricks or complicated procedures. All the pastries are made in front of the customers: From dividing and rolling the dough and wrapping in the filling, to baking it first on the stove and then in the oven, every step is carried out in the half-ping space of the night market, entirely exposed to the scrutiny of customers and passers-by. How many places can lay similar claim?
--The preceding is a translation of the "Small Dishes, Great Tastes" column that appeared in the April 24, 2006 issue of the Chinese-language Business Weekly.
Write to Eugenia Yun at eugeniayun@mail.gio.gov.tw