One of Taiwan's most fascinating and scenic places is one that the tourist rarely sees. Shihtoushan — Lion's Head Mountain — is not so far from Taipei but it's off the beaten track and requires some walking. Near the newly industrialized city of Hsinchu, the Lion's Head is the center of Buddhism in Tai wan. Temples abound and there are several monasteries. Above, left: Arrival at Nantien Gate after climbing flights of stone steps. Right: View of Chuan Hua Tang temple. Below: Pagoda dedicated to remains of the departed.
Shihtoushan is a mountain fairyland right out of an old Buddhist folktale and also — for those who go during the week when the crowds are thin — a perfect place for contemplation. From top left, clockwise: Overview with the roofs of Chuan Hua Tang and its pagoda at far right. Pavilion provides a resting place for visitors near Chuan Hua Tang. Kai Shan Ssu and several other temples are built in caves, much like some of the famous Buddhist shrines of the Chinese mainland. Walk leading to Tsu yang Gate in right background; beyond lies the Chuan Hua Tang temple. Flights of stone steps make the ascent easier (or more difficult, depending on the point of view) for the visitor; this stretch lies beyond Nantien Gate. Buses are found at the beginning and end of the walk but not in between. Transport is shank's mare.
From top left, clockwise: Roof carvings at Chuan Hua Tang. Ornate roof carvings in one of the many temples on Lion's Head. One of the temple guardians, this one smiling benevolently despite his sword and armor. Gate carving at the Tsuyang portal. Peaceful walk at Kai Shan Ssu. Another of the Tsuyang carvings. This guardian at Kai Shan Ssu scowls menacingly to make sure the pilgrim conducts himself with decorum. Some of the temples offer food and overnight accommodations in spartan quarters segregated by sex. A small donation is expected. The portals of Lion's Head are just 2½ hours from Taipei.