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Fashion label too sexy for Taiwan, eyes global market

• Byline:Myra Lu
• Publication Date:02/20/2004

         Despite the cold January air that kept most of Taipei's residents indoors, a young model wearing a stunning knee-length chipao with embroidery and a fishtail hem strolled up and down the 180-meter outdoor runway at Jhih Shan Garden, located next to Taipei's National Palace Museum, to the delight of some 600 invited guests at Shiatzy Chen's latest--and largest--fashion show.

        Although the guests in attendance were well dressed themselves, they marveled at the mandarin collars, braided buttons and floral prints of the traditional Chinese dresses on display. Most have been loyal customers of the label, whose co-founder and chief designer, Wang Chen Tsai-shia, now appears poised to reach out to a wider global market.

        Shiatzy Chen is one of the few homegrown designer labels in Taiwan with an international clientele. The opening of its flagship store in Paris in 2001, which made the Taiwanese fashion brand the first to enter the European market, attracted the attention of fashionistas around the world.

        "Our challenge is just about to begin," said Charles Wang, general manager of Shiatzy International Co. Ltd. "Even though we were the first to enter Europe, it still won't be easy to become a true international brand."

        Wang founded the company with his fashion-designer wife in 1978, with the goal of developing high-quality, stylish clothes for women. A line of men's wear was only added to the company's product list in 1987.

        "In our early years, we exported our clothes to Europe, Japan and the United States, and they were all well-received," Wang recalled. "But even then we were already well aware of the importance of brand building."

        "Exports of high-end, ready-to-wear clothes command a pretty good profit margin, but we just have to ask ourselves if this is what we want," Wang explained.

        A desire to do better and pursue excellence drove the couple to venture in a new direction, which eventually became Shiatzy's signature style--a style the couple believes will help them stand out in the competitive business. The result was a combination of Eastern and Western fashion sense--what Wang refers to as "neo-Chinese chic."

        For them, mixing Chinese elements such as embroidery and quilted patterns with Western-style suit and dress was a bold new focus, for which no role models were available. They nonetheless decided to take the road less traveled, even in their choice of fabric. Wang Chen would order directly from well-established European fabric makers so as to distinguish her materials from those used by other local labels.

        In 1990, the couple set up a studio in Paris to stay on top of fashion trends and to learn more about Western dressmaking techniques. The studio also serves as a training center for Taiwanese dressmakers and designers.

        This is not to say that they have forgotten the techniques used by ancient Chinese embroiderers and weavers. "We have devoted time to researching traditional Chinese costumes and dressmaking so that we can make the best out of this rich, cultural heritage. Shiatzy Chen's brand spirit, I think, lies in translating our unique, historical aesthetics into modern-day fashion," Wang said.

        He pointed out that the company's designs lean toward a Western-style cut that differs from traditional Chinese fashions. The cut of the latter is usually flat and lines are not overtly emphasized. "One of our selling points in the overseas market is that the clothes have an elegant, stylish look yet are rich in Chinese motifs."

        Sales have continued to climb over the years as the brand gradually established its name. In 2002, sales reached about US$18 million, according to the company. Wives of politicians, diplomats and business executives, in particular, would stuff their wardrobes with Shiatzy's dresses before taking trips abroad. In fact, these women, with their significant purchasing power, constitute the majority of the company's customers in Taiwan.

        Since the introduction of a membership system in 1994, Shiatzy has accumulated 20,000 loyal customers, mostly aged between 41 and 50. The second generation of members is fast becoming an important source of revenue, however, which has propelled the designer to adopt the younger, trendier look that was highlighted on the runway at the Jhih Shan Garden.

        Whatever changes it has made, Shiatzy remains distinctly its own unique brand. "No matter what creative designs the company comes up with every season, it has not deviated from its core ideal, which is to give Chinese culture a modern feel," said Doris Tsai, assistant professor of fashion design at Tainan Women's College of Arts and Technology. "Sometimes this can be difficult to achieve."

        Tsai noted that some local designers, though hardly short on creativity, tend to forget what it is they have been trying to bring to their designs. "Even if others want to follow Shiatzy Chen's style, they are unable to capture its flair," Tsai added.

        This has been and will continue to be an important ingredient of the success Shiatzy hopes to achieve internationally. Already, the label has been listed on the London-based Financial Times pick of what is hot in 2004. It was also deemed the most popular fashion brand in Taiwan by the Asian Wall Street Journal last year.

        "She could be very successful in Europe because of her top-quality fabrics and uncompromising details, like embroidery, applique and beading," Amber Lo, Vogue Taiwan's fashion director was quoted as saying. "There is nothing in any market with her style at the international designer level."

        All this comes as great encouragement to the Wangs. Still, before it can hope to make a dent in the international fashion world, the company has to contend with the same problem facing many industries in Taiwan, which is a loss of talent. After honing their skills at Shiatzy, many capable young designers leave to start their own businesses, or work for competing outfits.

        "It takes an average of six years to train a designer properly," said Wang. "These younger staff members, however, just leave the company once they think they have learned all they can from us. This deals us quite a blow."

        Still, training goes on. "Especially after we added casual wear and home decor to our product line last year, we need to hire more professionals," Wang said. Finding the right talent has been a major difficulty, as have the design houses that borrow heavily from Shiatzy's lineups over the years, offering similar but inferior products for far less money. Most crippling, however, is a general lack of aesthetic appreciation in Taiwan as a whole, the general manager suggested.

        "There is a huge gap between design education and what the industry needs. When it comes to originality, Taiwan still has a long way to go," Wang said. He added, however, that he is glad to see the government pushing for a creative industry in Taiwan and a shift away from the economy's over-reliance on original-equipment manufacturing.

        Indeed, Taiwan cannot begin to compare with the West in terms of lifestyle, noted Tsai, adding that the aesthetic education available on the island is also lacking. "European designers grow up in an environment that is rich with art and culture. Books and music are part of their lives, and all this plays a role in their sensitivity to aesthetics," explained Tsai.

        "We need to be able to blend aesthetics into our lives; into the products we use everyday, be it a glass or a dress," the professor said.

        Having said that, Tsai believes that local designers can still do well if they try hard enough. "Each and every designer has his own style. As long as he is able to grasp the quintessence of international fashion trends, he will have a chance."

        Next year, Shiatzy expects to take part in Paris Fashion Week. The couple harbors great hopes that the flagship on rue St Honor? will lead them to the world's top fashion circles, turning Taiwan's Shiatzy Chen into a recognizable label like Giorgio Armani or Yohji Yamamoto.